After a somewhat uncomfortable overnight bus-ride I arrived in Dharmasala.
Arriving was like a breath of fresh air! After the dirty sprawl of Delhi, seeing the rolling hills on one side and the snow dusted (near Himilayan) mountains on the other made me happy. I was thanking Buddha that India wasn't all that bad.
The monestary was a fifteen minute walk down a path, but for the beauty and peacefulness of the spot it was worth it.
The town (Mcleod Ganj) is nice, it's where the Dalai Lama lives, and is predominantly Tibetan. The town was set up as a refuge for all Tibetans forced out by the Chinese.
I made friends with some German girls that were architecture students and had just come back from the north where they were helping construct a hospital they'd designed for a village.
There were good shops and surprisingly good coffee... latte to rival Auckland's finest. We spent too much time at Carpe Diem which is a really chilled cafe run by some cool guys from Nepal. We watched the 20Twenty world-cup final there, I had to explain the rules to a bunch of Swiss and the locals went mental when India won. There was also a jam session which was cool (except for the free styling Canadian) and breakfast each morning usually lasted until the afternoon.
One day a monk led us to a waterfall. During the walk I was gazing at what could have made a nice photo when the ground fell from under me. I'd fallen off the edge and luckily slapped my forearms against the side to keep me from falling further. I was glad, I don't fancy getting air-lifted to an Indian hospital. The waterfall was nice, straight from the glaciers, so our unplanned swim was short lived.
We went to a teaching by the Dalai's 2IC which was enlightening.
I got sick with a cold and a cough.... who comes to India and gets a cold? No shits, a cold. I was even constipated. In India. I think September was backwards month.
Saturday, October 6, 2007
19th - 20th September, The World's Arse
Delhi is horrible.
I spent the first day with a rickshaw driver visiting some of the sights.... the park where Gandhi was cremated, some place with a big tall pillar thing, the Bahai Temple of Worship (that looks like the Sydney Opera House) bla bla bla.
Thing is, I found the people and how they were living far more interesting than the sights. I saw a naked old man that was so skinny he looked like he was about to turn to dust, other people lying on the street looking dead, people shitting and pissing, a few cows, had a child run after my rickshaw 'cause she wanted my pepsi, and an abundance of other beggars with an array of deformities.
I was talking with a man during breakfast that ran a Tibetan monestary in Dharmasala. He suggested that I go and stay, it sounded nice so I booked a bus for the next day.
My malaria pills had been giving me crazy dreams. That night I woke up and thought I'd slept-walked to the port (Delhi has no port). I freaked out, fossicked for the torch in my bag and realised, with much relief, that I was still in my room.
The second day was similar to the first. Visited the Red-fort then tried to stray from the tourist spot and go for a meal down one of the busy local streets. I got half way down and turned back, it was too much.
I went back to catch my bus. Before boarding I gave money to a wheel-chair bound midget beggar who had weird stubs for feet and hands... he talked like a cartoon elf.
I spent the first day with a rickshaw driver visiting some of the sights.... the park where Gandhi was cremated, some place with a big tall pillar thing, the Bahai Temple of Worship (that looks like the Sydney Opera House) bla bla bla.
Thing is, I found the people and how they were living far more interesting than the sights. I saw a naked old man that was so skinny he looked like he was about to turn to dust, other people lying on the street looking dead, people shitting and pissing, a few cows, had a child run after my rickshaw 'cause she wanted my pepsi, and an abundance of other beggars with an array of deformities.
I was talking with a man during breakfast that ran a Tibetan monestary in Dharmasala. He suggested that I go and stay, it sounded nice so I booked a bus for the next day.
My malaria pills had been giving me crazy dreams. That night I woke up and thought I'd slept-walked to the port (Delhi has no port). I freaked out, fossicked for the torch in my bag and realised, with much relief, that I was still in my room.
The second day was similar to the first. Visited the Red-fort then tried to stray from the tourist spot and go for a meal down one of the busy local streets. I got half way down and turned back, it was too much.
I went back to catch my bus. Before boarding I gave money to a wheel-chair bound midget beggar who had weird stubs for feet and hands... he talked like a cartoon elf.
Wednesday, September 26, 2007
18th September, Delhi
Just three and a half hours after leaving Bangkok I was in Delhi.
After collecting my bag and making my way through customs I eventually found my driver, among hundreds of others, holding a sign with my name. We left the terminal and he led the way to his car.
My first impression was crazy, it was so different to anything I'd experienced. It felt like stepping back in time. It was hotter and more humid than Bangkok, it was busy, dusty and loud... The taxi's I found unexpected - I didn't realise they would be the old British models like in the photo below (wasn't quite this busy).
Also, I find the people to have such an old-fashioned style, like they've come from the 60's.
Beggars would approach us when we stopped at lights, and there were so many people, young and old sleeping on the footpath... I think Old Delhi was the worst.
I was surprised at the vegetation - it was very green, but everywhere else was so dirty... rubbish piled everywhere... old tyre's stacked on to rooftops of decaying old buildings.... cows finding food wherever they could.
An hour later we were at the Tibetan refugee area which was where my hotel was.
After collecting my bag and making my way through customs I eventually found my driver, among hundreds of others, holding a sign with my name. We left the terminal and he led the way to his car.
My first impression was crazy, it was so different to anything I'd experienced. It felt like stepping back in time. It was hotter and more humid than Bangkok, it was busy, dusty and loud... The taxi's I found unexpected - I didn't realise they would be the old British models like in the photo below (wasn't quite this busy).
Also, I find the people to have such an old-fashioned style, like they've come from the 60's.
Beggars would approach us when we stopped at lights, and there were so many people, young and old sleeping on the footpath... I think Old Delhi was the worst.
I was surprised at the vegetation - it was very green, but everywhere else was so dirty... rubbish piled everywhere... old tyre's stacked on to rooftops of decaying old buildings.... cows finding food wherever they could.
An hour later we were at the Tibetan refugee area which was where my hotel was.
Monday, September 24, 2007
17th - 18th September, No sleep 'til.... Delhi.
Reluctantly I had to leave Ko Tao. I was to take a ferry to Ko Samui where I'd spend one night before flying at 6am the next morning to Bangkok and then on to Delhi.
I arrived on the island and took a transfer taxi to an area that's relatively close to the airport, not realising that it's really expensive and accommodation was scarce.
After walking down the main road for a while I visited a guesthouse where a German guy overheard me enquiring and suggested that we share his double room. That was good enough for me, and pretty lucky too, so I dropped off my bags and headed back down for dinner.
After dinner and a few beers we decided to head out and visit some of Samui's bars... 6am's not that early.
We stopped by a convenience store to buy some walking beer before arriving at a bar where we ordered a bucket, as you do in Thailand, of whiskey and coke. Perhaps not too sensible as a bucket of Thai whiskey tends to go straight to your head.
From that bar we went to another, then another, then another. Met some random Brits and Irish and talked shit with them. The bars were crazy, lots of working girls and lady-boys around the place. Saw an older gentleman walking down the street with a Thai girl on each arm. The island is completely different to Ko Tao, so much bigger and more commercial - made me glad that I'd opted to spend my remaining days relaxing on Tao.
All of a sudden it was 4.30am and my taxi was arriving to pick me up at 4.50. I downed my last drink, possibly unnecessarily, and raced back to the guesthouse where I had just enough time to grab my bags before jumping in the taxi.
I was in a great mood checking in at the airport, chatting to a few of the other passengers who were so boring having just woken up. From what I remember, Ko Samui airport is really strange. The check-in area is a hut and from there you take a weird open-sided bus to somewhere else (memory hazy) and then another before boarding the plane. Once in the sky I started sobering before landing at Bangkok where I felt like shit.
I had the day to wait for my connecting flight so I'd previously decided to visit one of the major attractions that I'd missed during my previous visits; the Grand Palace. Annoyingly Thai airways didn't let me check in my bag so I had to lug it around with me all day.
After getting off the bus at Khao San Road I sat at a cafe for breakfast. My hangover was punishing. I forced down my omelette and juice and sat there for about an hour, by myself, I may have fallen asleep.
Eventually I got up the energy to make my way to the palace. It was alright, I think it would have been more enjoyable if it hadn't been so hot, I didn't have my massive bag with me and I didn't feel like curling up and dying in a corner somewhere.
The hours soon passed and so did my hangover. I made my way back to the airport, checked in and waited to board my flight to Delhi. Was just a little scared.
I arrived on the island and took a transfer taxi to an area that's relatively close to the airport, not realising that it's really expensive and accommodation was scarce.
After walking down the main road for a while I visited a guesthouse where a German guy overheard me enquiring and suggested that we share his double room. That was good enough for me, and pretty lucky too, so I dropped off my bags and headed back down for dinner.
After dinner and a few beers we decided to head out and visit some of Samui's bars... 6am's not that early.
We stopped by a convenience store to buy some walking beer before arriving at a bar where we ordered a bucket, as you do in Thailand, of whiskey and coke. Perhaps not too sensible as a bucket of Thai whiskey tends to go straight to your head.
From that bar we went to another, then another, then another. Met some random Brits and Irish and talked shit with them. The bars were crazy, lots of working girls and lady-boys around the place. Saw an older gentleman walking down the street with a Thai girl on each arm. The island is completely different to Ko Tao, so much bigger and more commercial - made me glad that I'd opted to spend my remaining days relaxing on Tao.
All of a sudden it was 4.30am and my taxi was arriving to pick me up at 4.50. I downed my last drink, possibly unnecessarily, and raced back to the guesthouse where I had just enough time to grab my bags before jumping in the taxi.
I was in a great mood checking in at the airport, chatting to a few of the other passengers who were so boring having just woken up. From what I remember, Ko Samui airport is really strange. The check-in area is a hut and from there you take a weird open-sided bus to somewhere else (memory hazy) and then another before boarding the plane. Once in the sky I started sobering before landing at Bangkok where I felt like shit.
I had the day to wait for my connecting flight so I'd previously decided to visit one of the major attractions that I'd missed during my previous visits; the Grand Palace. Annoyingly Thai airways didn't let me check in my bag so I had to lug it around with me all day.
After getting off the bus at Khao San Road I sat at a cafe for breakfast. My hangover was punishing. I forced down my omelette and juice and sat there for about an hour, by myself, I may have fallen asleep.
Eventually I got up the energy to make my way to the palace. It was alright, I think it would have been more enjoyable if it hadn't been so hot, I didn't have my massive bag with me and I didn't feel like curling up and dying in a corner somewhere.
The hours soon passed and so did my hangover. I made my way back to the airport, checked in and waited to board my flight to Delhi. Was just a little scared.
Friday, September 21, 2007
12 - 17th September, Chilling with my homies
In the evenings I'd been tagging along with the Aussies I met on the boat. They'd spent a bit of time on the island already and knew the goings-on. They took me to a Psytrance party... got me drunk... sat in horror while I ate animal flesh... etc.
Once the diving course was over I moved to cheaper accommodation near them; my own bungalow on a hillside looking out to sea. Pretty basic, but peaceful and with a beautiful view - at night the illuminated squid boats would light up the sea.
The rest of my time spent on the island was ridiculously lazy. We'd wake up, sit at the restaurant playing uno, drinking, eating, sitting and eating until it was time to go out for dinner. Afterwards we'd sit and drink at bars along the beach.
Chris took the piss out of me at any opportunity and Cybelle cut my hair, very well, which was nice.
We made friends with the Austrian Petanque team who were about to go to the world championships in Pattaya, some locals (actually from Burma) and another Austrian who'd spent some time in India.
One of the 'athletes' from the Austrian Petanque team was bitten on the neck by a snake at our restaurant. Not poisonous though.
It was fun, I had planned to spend time at Koh Pha Nang and Samui but opted instead to relax the days away with these guys.
Dogs were everywhere. I was lying on the beach when one came and stood on me... one leg on my stomach and another on my 'bits'. It then bit my book and started play-biting my arm. I got up and threw a stick and tried again to ignore it. It eventually got bored and went up to a German couple and grabbed the guys towel for a tug-of-war. It was really funny. In the end I had to help him out so I walked up and threw a stick.
Walking back to my bungalow each night was a mission. I got lost every night. The paths were hard enough to follow even in the daylight, and in the dark it was just a little scary. Some nights a dog would escort me home, one night a pup walked me back, slept on my deck then escorted me back the next morning.
Once the diving course was over I moved to cheaper accommodation near them; my own bungalow on a hillside looking out to sea. Pretty basic, but peaceful and with a beautiful view - at night the illuminated squid boats would light up the sea.
The rest of my time spent on the island was ridiculously lazy. We'd wake up, sit at the restaurant playing uno, drinking, eating, sitting and eating until it was time to go out for dinner. Afterwards we'd sit and drink at bars along the beach.
Chris took the piss out of me at any opportunity and Cybelle cut my hair, very well, which was nice.
We made friends with the Austrian Petanque team who were about to go to the world championships in Pattaya, some locals (actually from Burma) and another Austrian who'd spent some time in India.
One of the 'athletes' from the Austrian Petanque team was bitten on the neck by a snake at our restaurant. Not poisonous though.
It was fun, I had planned to spend time at Koh Pha Nang and Samui but opted instead to relax the days away with these guys.
Dogs were everywhere. I was lying on the beach when one came and stood on me... one leg on my stomach and another on my 'bits'. It then bit my book and started play-biting my arm. I got up and threw a stick and tried again to ignore it. It eventually got bored and went up to a German couple and grabbed the guys towel for a tug-of-war. It was really funny. In the end I had to help him out so I walked up and threw a stick.
Walking back to my bungalow each night was a mission. I got lost every night. The paths were hard enough to follow even in the daylight, and in the dark it was just a little scary. Some nights a dog would escort me home, one night a pup walked me back, slept on my deck then escorted me back the next morning.
9th - 12th September, PADI-Thai
After arriving on Ko Tao I hired a scooter and went searching for a dive school. I decided on 'Buddha View' which was OK, perhaps not as personal as smaller schools... Because they offered subsidised accommodation, and as the world-cup had just started I opted for the fancy-ass room with Cable TV. The room was mint, I had my own massive deck and for the first time on my trip; hot water!!!
Before starting the course I toured the island on my rental. It's pretty small and many of the roads are just dirt and big rocks... felt a bit dodgy taking the bike over them without a helmet.
I sat in my room to watch the Italy vs. NZ game, was very exciting.
The course took 4 days. The first was just a lesson, the second day was in the pool, the third day was out at sea just to a few metres and on the last day we were meant to go down to 18m... my gauge was telling me I was at 25m and while I was fussing over it I missed a black shark that was right in front of us. Was so annoyed, everyone else in the group saw it except me!
We had another dive to just 12m where we took off our fins and played around standing at the bottom of the sea. Was so much fun, could just jump up, do a double somersault then land on my feet again. Couple of guys did a big matrix style fight, was quite funny.
The water, coral and sea life were amazing I'd recommend Ko Tao to others wanting to learn.
Before starting the course I toured the island on my rental. It's pretty small and many of the roads are just dirt and big rocks... felt a bit dodgy taking the bike over them without a helmet.
I sat in my room to watch the Italy vs. NZ game, was very exciting.
The course took 4 days. The first was just a lesson, the second day was in the pool, the third day was out at sea just to a few metres and on the last day we were meant to go down to 18m... my gauge was telling me I was at 25m and while I was fussing over it I missed a black shark that was right in front of us. Was so annoyed, everyone else in the group saw it except me!
We had another dive to just 12m where we took off our fins and played around standing at the bottom of the sea. Was so much fun, could just jump up, do a double somersault then land on my feet again. Couple of guys did a big matrix style fight, was quite funny.
The water, coral and sea life were amazing I'd recommend Ko Tao to others wanting to learn.
Thursday, September 20, 2007
8th September, to Ko Tao
From Hat Ton Sai on the west-coast, I decided to make the overnight trip to Ko Tao which is a small east-coast island. This meant parting ways with Jonus who couldn't make it that far before flying back home.
The trip consisted of a few hours in the bus and 11 hours by boat. I was thinking that an overnight passenger boat's got to be pretty flash... nice beds, bar, food. Turns out that it was more or less a freight-boat (complete with squealing pigs in tiny cages). The upper level housed mattresses sprawled down each side for the sleeping human cargo.
I had a 2 hour wait in the town of Surat Thani before boarding. Bought some ice-cream from a Swensens (reminding me of the Swensens that used to be in Newmarket) then wandered through the stalls. One of the vendors was selling crickets, silk-worms and ants by the gram - piping hot, ready to eat. I was annoyed that I'd wasted my appetite on the ice-cream.
Before boarding I met a crew from Melbourne who were also on their way to Ko Tao, enter: Chris, Steph, Monique and Sybelle who, as it turned out, I'd be spending a bit of time with in the days to come. I thought they were Kiwi's originally as Chris was wearing a huffer tee with the NZ map on the front.
The trip was fine, woke up semi-refreshed at the port the next morning.
The trip consisted of a few hours in the bus and 11 hours by boat. I was thinking that an overnight passenger boat's got to be pretty flash... nice beds, bar, food. Turns out that it was more or less a freight-boat (complete with squealing pigs in tiny cages). The upper level housed mattresses sprawled down each side for the sleeping human cargo.
I had a 2 hour wait in the town of Surat Thani before boarding. Bought some ice-cream from a Swensens (reminding me of the Swensens that used to be in Newmarket) then wandered through the stalls. One of the vendors was selling crickets, silk-worms and ants by the gram - piping hot, ready to eat. I was annoyed that I'd wasted my appetite on the ice-cream.
Before boarding I met a crew from Melbourne who were also on their way to Ko Tao, enter: Chris, Steph, Monique and Sybelle who, as it turned out, I'd be spending a bit of time with in the days to come. I thought they were Kiwi's originally as Chris was wearing a huffer tee with the NZ map on the front.
The trip was fine, woke up semi-refreshed at the port the next morning.
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